Glen-L Hot Rod

1–2. Fiberglass was trimmed with a utility knife and blocked with coarse sandpaper.

3. The deck will be primed and painted, so we chose a heavier 10 ounce fiberglass cloth. We'll be sanding with an airfile which would normally just shred lighter four or six ounce cloth. Width is 39" so we laid it out in three panels.

4. We'll let it cure overnight, knock off the high spots and apply three fill coats tomorrow.

1. Fill coat # 3 and 4: Once the epoxy was fully cured, we airfiled with 80 grit sandpaper and applied the third and fourth fill coats (7PM and 12AM). We didn't have to do any fairing as the deck panels were very fair to begin with.

2. One more blocking with the airfile and two more epoxy barrier coats should give us a thick enough substrate to apply urethane primer-surfacer.

We'll block and prime the substrate until we're happy with the finish !

1. The deck was airfiled with 80 grit sandpaper followed up with 100 grit on a longboard. Low spots were filled with fairing compound made from West System Epoxy and 407/410 fillers.

2. The substrate was cleaned with Final Wipe Wax, Grease and Silicone Remover followed by DuPont Plas-Stick 2319S Plastic Surface Cleaner Three medium coats of DuPont URO 1107S Urethane Primer Surfacer were applied with an HVLP spray gun. Here are some links for these products: Final Wipe Wax and Grease Remover DuPont™ Plas-Stick® 2319S ™ Plastic-Prep DuPont™ URO® 1107S Primer-Filler

Low spots required very little finishing putty. Surface was prepped for second round of primer surfacer.

The dash was blocked and topcoated with three build coats of Nason SelectClear 2K Clearcoat .

Before we spray several rounds of black primer-sealer to the deck and hull, we clearcoated the dash so we can tape the whole cockpit to prevent overspray.