Glen-L Hot Rod

This section describes how to build a boring bar which can be used to bore the propeller shaft hole.

1. The 1" boring bar consists of a 1" round bar, a slip-on connector and a standard holesaw fitted with a 1/2" x 18" extension bar.

2. The drive end of the tool is fitted with a 1/2" drive impact socket.

3. A 1" ID pipe sleeve is used to connect the 1" bar and the impact socket.

4. The coupler consists of a 1/2" drive 7/16" impact socket welded to a 1" ID pipe sleeve.

5. The pipe sleeve is drilled for a 1/4" x 2" through bolt.

6. To get the shaft hole started, a guide block was cut from a piece of 4"W x 4"H x 9"L stock. A 1-1/2" holesaw was used to drill a hole along the stock's length.

7. The piece was then cut on the bandsaw at a 12 degree angle to suit the propeller strut. To locate the point at which the holesaw will start cutting the plywood bottom, insert the holesaw into the big end of the block and push it in until the teeth are flush with the underside of the block. Transfer the mark to both sides of the block.

8. Insert an 8' long 1" bar through the strut. A scrap piece of 1/2" plywood is slipped under the strut to simulate the hull planking thickness. A piece of 1/8" masonite simulates the fiberglass thickness.

9. Push the bar through the guide block. Push until it contacts the keel and mark the point. Using shims, center the guide block on the shaft and mark the holesaw entry point. Clamp the guide block.

10. Remove the shaft and insert the boring bar, coupler and holesaw into the guide block. Use an inclinometer (angle finder) to verify the shaft angle is correct before drilling.

11. The finished shaft hole.

Since this boat will easily exceed 50 MPH, a Teleflex NFB Dual Cable steering system will be required. A used unit was scavenged from a junked SeaRay cuddy cabin cruiser. Two 15' cables and clevises will be needed to connect the cables to the rudder's tiller arm.

1. We've upgraded from a Teleflex NFB Dual Cable system to Seastar hydraulic steering. Running two hefty cables through the stringers to the tiller would have compromised the stringer's integrity, so we'll be running 3/8" copper lines instead.

2–3. Visible in this photo are the two fiberglass drain plug tubes. A brass sleeve will be slipped into the tube and sealed with 3M 5200 sealant. If any water leaks past the tube, the fiberglass tube liner will protect the frame from water damage.

4. In order to mount the cylinder within the stringers, we fabricated a second tiller which will connect to the central tiller arm via an adjustable tie bar. The tiller arm was flame-cut from a piece of 3/8" steel plate.

5. A piece of 3/4" ID schedule 80 steel pipe was fitted through the tiller arm pivot point and bushed with a bronze bushing. The pivot rod is a 9/16" x 2" machine bolt captured between the top and bottom plates. We'll post more photos when we finalize some of these parts...

1. Steve at Ayling's Boat Yard has been busy in the machine shop refining the steering components. The slave tiller arm bushing housing was welded, the pivot pin was upgraded to 3/4" diameter stock and re-bushed to tighter tolerances. Nice work, Steve ! Click here to see more detailed photos. ( a new window will be opened)

2. Work on the boat will continue over the holidays, but we'll also make some time to enjoy the snowmobile trails. Can't be working in the shop all the time ! I'd like to wish all our visitors a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year !

To complete the assembly, we fabricated a hydraulic cylinder mounting bracket and stainless steel tie bar. At a later date, we'll be replacing the tie bar with two tie-rod ends and a length of threaded rod.

A Gil offshore sea strainer filters raw water before feeding it into the cam-driven water pump and oil coolers.

1. More parts came back from the machine shop. The slave tiller arm bushing housing was welded, the pivot pin was upgraded to 3/4" diameter and re-bushed to tighter tolerances. Nice work, Steve !

2. Visible in this photo are the two 3/8" annealed copper tubing hydraulic steering hoses. They're retained by bulkhead fittings bolted through the stainless steel transom support uprights. The hose barb thru-hull fitting located above the copper lines is for the bilge pump exit hose.