Glen-L Hot Rod

1. A quick and accurate method of fairing the frames so they'll sit 1/8" below the battens involves running a router over two strips of 1/4" plywood clamped to the battens.

2. This prevents 'hard spots' from forming on the hull where the frames contact the bottom planking.

1. The strut was reinstalled and an 8' long piece of 1" round bar was slipped into it. Two 1" ID by 1-5/8" OD bushings and the fiberglass tube were slid onto the shaft.

2. Here's a closeup shot of the tube and bushing.

3. The bushings were slid into each end of the tube. This will ensure that the tube is centered on the shaft.

4. The assembly is pushed into the shaft hole. It should be a loose fit. Enough clearance for a coat of thickened epoxy around the tube will be required. If the fit is too tight or if the tube binds in the shaft hole, roll and tape a piece of coarse sandpaper around the tube and rotate it in the shaft hole.

5. Here's the view from inside the boat. The 1" shaft rests in a 1" diameter hole drilled into the frame at a 12 degree angle. You can also see the fiberglass tube bushing.

6. The shaft tube is ready to be epoxied.

1. Sheer fairing nearing completion. To span from chine to sheer, we've welded two 30" long pieces of 1/8" by 1" flat steel bar to each side of an old jack plane. This speeds up the fairing process and is very accurate.

2. Chine was faired from frame # 4 to the stem.

Most of the first sheer lamination was faired away.

1. Since the Bill Of Materials call for a single layer of 1/4" sheeting for the sides, we'll be using 1/4" 5-Ply Meranti marine grade plywood. Five sheets were ripped into 31" wide strips and scarfed on the radial arm saw. Click here to see how the saw was set up to make the cut.

2. Scarfed sheeting was stacked and will be finished with an air file. This will roughen up the joint and provide a better bonding surface for the epoxy.