boatbuildlog

Hot Rod · new build

Launched

Glen-L Hot Rod

Make a book Feed The whole log, 260 entries and every photo, laid out as a book to print, bind and keep.
260
Entries
n/a
Hours
n/a
Written up afterwards
1203
Photos
Nov 2003
Started
Systems Link

Propeller: The prop on the left is our old OJ 12x16p LH 3 blade Nibral propeller

1. The prop on the left is our old OJ 12x16p LH 3 blade Nibral propeller. It has performed flawlessly, but we wanted to increase our cruise RPM by several hundred RPM, so we had a new OJ propeller reworked to an 11x14p.

2. (Index)

1 Hot Rod: Propeller: The prop on the left is our old OJ 12x16p LH 3 blade Nibral propeller
2 Hot Rod: Propeller: The prop on the left is our old OJ 12x16p LH 3 blade Nibral propeller
Brightwork & Varnish Link

Seats: Time to get back to some finishing and get the seats ready for upholstery

Time to get back to some finishing and get the seats ready for upholstery. The seat tops were trimmed at a 10 degree angle so that the tops are flush with the deck. The simple rotisserie jig made spray painting the parts a lot easier !

We encapsulated with three rounds of West System 207 Special Coating. After block sanding, we sprayed three rounds of Perfection two-part polyurethane varnish.

Hardware & Fit-Out Link

Deck: Time to finish up the front deck

1. Time to finish up the front deck. We needed to build a wide deck beam to bolt the dash cowl to. We epoxied a 4-1/2" wide strip of 1/4" marine grade plywood to the bottom of the deck battens.

2. We laminated three layers of 1/4" marine ply to conform to the deck beam's curvature.

3. The pop-up bow light mounts in a plastic housing (at left of photo). The fit wasn't too good, the plastic was very flimsy and the bolt holes were way too close to the edge, so we fabricated a wood plug from some scrap wood (middle of photo). We wrapped the plug with Saran Wrap and wetted out three layers of 6 ounce fiberglass cloth with West System epoxy.

1 Hot Rod: Deck: Time to finish up the front deck
2 Hot Rod: Deck: Time to finish up the front deck
3 Hot Rod: Deck: Time to finish up the front deck
Glassing & Epoxy Link

Deck: The pop-up bow light mounts in a plastic housing (at left of photo)

1. The pop-up bow light mounts in a plastic housing (at left of photo). The fit wasn't too good, the plastic was very flimsy and the bolt holes were way too close to the edge, so we fabricated a wood plug from some scrap wood (middle of photo). We wrapped the plug with Saran Wrap and wetted out three layers of 6 ounce fiberglass cloth with West System epoxy.

2–3. We moved the front mounting hole inboard away from the flange and created a step to receive the mount bolt.

4. The shroud was epoxied into the strongback.

1 Hot Rod: Deck: The pop-up bow light mounts in a plastic housing (at left of photo)
2 Hot Rod: Deck: The pop-up bow light mounts in a plastic housing (at left of photo)
3 Hot Rod: Deck: The pop-up bow light mounts in a plastic housing (at left of photo)
4 Hot Rod: Deck: The pop-up bow light mounts in a plastic housing (at left of photo)
Fairing & Sanding Link

Deck: Blocking for the pop-up deck cleats was made from 3/4" marine grade plywood

Fits like a glove !

1. Blocking for the pop-up deck cleats was made from 3/4" marine grade plywood.

2. The cleat pops up when you hit the release button.

3. To restore some of the deck batten thickness we removed while fairing, we laminated a strip of 1/4" marine grade plywood to the underside of several battens.

4. The battens will be encapsulated before applying the plywood deck.

1 Hot Rod: Deck: Blocking for the pop-up deck cleats was made from 3/4" marine grade plywood
2 Hot Rod: Deck: Blocking for the pop-up deck cleats was made from 3/4" marine grade plywood
3 Hot Rod: Deck: Blocking for the pop-up deck cleats was made from 3/4" marine grade plywood
4 Hot Rod: Deck: Blocking for the pop-up deck cleats was made from 3/4" marine grade plywood

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