Glen-L Hot Rod

1. Before epoxying the deck, we had to trim the flotation foam billets to clear our new bow light pod.

2. To ensure adequate ventilation and prevent rot issues, we installed 1-1/2" diameter 1/4" marine grade plywood spacers between the deck battens and foam bilets.

3. Billets are held in position by 1/4-20 stainless steel threaded rods and SS nyloc nuts. To see how the panels were fabricated, click here.

1–2. Starboard deck was installed using thickened epoxy and fastened with silicon bronze screws.

The port deck was buttoned down. We're ready for some fairing along the sheer and fiberglass.

1. With the deck plywood installed, it's time to build up two layers of ten ounce fiberglass cloth to form a 'shoebox' joint along the sheer. This deck-to-hull joint is used in fiberglass boats and saves a lot of time as the deck cloth doesn't overlap the hull, only a 3/4" wide strip at the sheer.

2. The deck's underside will be encapsulated with two coats of West System resin catalyzed with 207 Special Coating hardener. The flotation billets are getting a few more rounds of body filler to get them ready for paint. We'll be fiberglassing the deck tomorrow...

1–2. Fiberglass was trimmed with a utility knife and blocked with coarse sandpaper.

3. The deck will be primed and painted, so we chose a heavier 10 ounce fiberglass cloth. We'll be sanding with an airfile which would normally just shred lighter four or six ounce cloth. Width is 39" so we laid it out in three panels.

4. We'll let it cure overnight, knock off the high spots and apply three fill coats tomorrow.