Glen-L Hot Rod

1. Here's a shot of the last side planking scarf joint being epoxied.

2–3. Several bricks are used to clamp the joint. Excessive weight will squeeze too much epoxy from the joint and lead to an unsound joint. In the background, we're fitting the douglas fir side planking template to the side of the boat.

1. The frame sides must be faired so that they don't project against the plywood planking. This would cause a 'hard spot' which could cause the panel to fracture. Our trusty router jig was clamped to the side of the frame.

2. The router bit depth was set to cut 1/16" below the chine surface.

3. The operation was repeated at the sheer junction. A block plane was used to fair the remainder of the frame.

4. Starboard side planking installed. The port side is being fitted.

5. Two scarf joints fall between frames #4 and #6.

6. View from the starboard rear. The tumblehome is quite severe but the 5 ply marine plywood conforms to the radius quite easily.

1. Laminating the fender steps. 1-1/2" wide by 1/4" thick mahogany strips were epoxied to two pieces of 1/4" marine grade plywood which were previously fitted to the fender steps.

2. Plank spacing was 1/4". Wax paper strips were used under the hold-downs to prevent them from sticking to the lamination.

1. Side planking was fastened with 1" #8 screws spaced 3" apart at the chine and 4" apart at the sheer.

2. Screws will be spaced 2" apart at the stem and transom.

1. To prevent the white expoxy from marring the narrow strips, we applied a base coat of West epoxy (207 clearcoat). Once cured, we taped the edges and horizontal surfaces before applying the white epoxy.

2. The epoxy mix consisted of West 105 resin, 404 high density filler, a touch of 403 microfibers and a spoonful of white epoxy tint. The tape was pulled after the epoxy had cured for 30 minutes.

3–4. The fender steps are ready to be installed and final-clearcoated.